March 31, 2011

31 Marzo 2011

All I have to say today is that I am so thankful for my family.

Cesar's mom cam up to me yesterday to see what so many loving people had mailed me over the past month. "You are so lucky to have so many people that love you. I never had anyone to fix me food, to tell me to eat, to buy me gifts. You are so lucky."

The woman's childhood was nothing but hard.

Thank you to everyone who has sent me gifts that brighten my day, with all my heart.



My presentations went well this week. The rotary club was literally pulling out their wallets by the end of our presentation. Tomorrow, I present to my mayor and council-members for support in Madrigal. I might have to come back to Arequipa quickly because I wasn't able to finish my personal errands due to grant applications, the post office, and the presentations this week.

So, see you soon!

March 28, 2011

28 Marzo 2011

I am a little tired of censoring my blog entries so not to upset anyone. I have my mother's permission to share some of her thoughts she shared with me, and I am not going to sensor my own.

If you have are delicate or hyper sensitive you should probably stop reading.
If you are delicate or hyper sensitive and you continue to read, good for you. I just don't want to hear your comments.

I wrote this 27 Octubre 2010

Some quotes.

Not my words.

Just some quotes that have gotten me thinking.

“To move close to god is to move close to everything that human beings have ever experienced. That of course includes a lot of suffering as well as a lot of joy.”

“The closer you get to the light, the closer you also get to the darkness.”

Words from a radio interview:

“The prophet Jeremiah: ‘To care for the poor and needy; is that not what it means to know me?’ - “It’s not just that caring for the needy acquaints you with god, but caring for the needy is god.” – I experience something like that and it is the deepest way that I can imagine to live.

Yet, let’s talk about the limits of charity. “[The work of giving money as charity work. I do justice work. The two are distinct.] My understanding of the difference is that within the Christian tradition there is a mandate that we give charity and work for justice. Basically we give charity for ourselves. Because it is the right thing to do for our own spiritual health. We are in control of charity, we decide where it goes and who gets it. Often we decide what people have to do with our charity. We are the ones on top, they are the ones on the bottom. There are a whole host of problems associated with charity. I don’t criticize charity, it is something we should do, but it is different from justice. Justice is working to change the structures so that the charity becomes less necessary.”

Writing checks and sending clothes is needed and good, but my mother and I have to live for the justice.

“The third leg is real relationships. Without any real relationships you don’t have any good idea about how to change the structures [to create justice].”

I talk often about not being able to connect with many of the other volunteers serving here in Peru. And it was funny to me who I ended up becoming close to, each of them so different from my friends back home, and each of them so distinct from one another. I kept writing in my journal, “somehow, we get each other. We have the same sense. We are here for the same reasons.” And now I have tied this idea of justice to these friendships I have with other volunteers. It is more than a longing to be a part of the infamous Peace Corps and wanting to be a part of the change in the system. We can’t be anything but this. We are unable to function without this work; justice is a reason for our existence.

It is funny, my new relationship with this word justice. I always viewed it as a form of revenge or punishment, neither of which I agree with. But today, for the first time, I have seen it through my mother’s eyes. A balance.

Another thought from the interview.

“Once when I was young I came home after school and baked a cake for my mom for dinner… … I pulled down a box of cake mix, and after I emptied the cake mix into the bowl I saw that the recipe called for eggs, and we were out. I remembered the stories my family would tell about growing up in the rural segregated south. Though Jim Crow Black suffered severe institutional depression, their communities were strong. Neighbors were always helping each other out. People would come over and ask for a cup of sugar or a loaf of bread and if you had it you gave it. So that day, I went across the street to Miss Jesse, our retired neighbor, I got my two eggs and finished baking the cake. When my mother arrived I presented her with the cake and proudly recounted all my efforts and resourcefulness. But the glow from her face quickly faded when I got the to part about borrowing the eggs. She called my father into the kitchen and together they scolded me about going around the neighborhood begging for food. It appears that in today’s culture strong communities are those where estranged neighbors live on islands with no needs for one another. Where sharing is not a practice of healthy community building, but an act of last resort for the desperate and destitute. In October 2008 when the market began to collapse, I secretly hoped that the crash would be so complete that our middle class pretenses would fall. Instead what I see is a president, congress, and market place eager to maintain the status quo. But they are just taking their marching orders from us, the American people. It seems we are still willing to do anything to keep from knocking on our neighbor’s door to ask for eggs.”

I LOVE this story. Now, don’t get me wrong, I love my country with all my heart and appreicate so much the opportunities and security it has given me. But, I thought I was the only person that actually, sillily and secretly hoped the market would crash just a little harder. I wanted the people on top to feel life, just a little bit more. I wanted the citizens of the country I love to see that they can live on less and still be happy. I can’t say everything is good about their lives, but those who I surround myself with now really, truly, are happy for the most part and we don t just live on less, but we actually live on just about nothing. In this community, if somehow you come to have, you share. It is beautiful. I often hear acquaintances and Americans on radio interview say, I couldn’t live like people in the third world do. But, the truth is you are a beautiful and strong people. Yes, you can. You have just never had the opportunity to try.

March 25, 2011

25 Marzo 2011

Departmental meeting in Chivay today, then I am headed to Arequipa to secure funds for my afterschool program and nutrition workshop... and take a hot shower.. I stink.
Cross your fingers that me and my kids get the funds we need quick so I can hurry back to site and start teaching non-stop!

24 Marzo 2011

The moon has not yet risen over the canyon.

The stars are brilliant tonight.

23 Marzo 2011

Things I might have never thought I would be so thankful for today:
In no particular order:

Household appliances/machines in general: they have allowed women to leave the household and be independent beings. They have allowed our society to leave behind some physical labor in order to advance our minds. The potential to enjoy a healthier, less challenging life exists within these ideas. Whether we do it or not is debatable.
Unions: they have defined my 5-hour workday and weekends off. They have secured the rights of even the white-collar worker.
My society of perfection: While I always fought it, and insisted that the testing in schools was bullshit (exibit a: I still think it can be improved) I am so thankful that my teachers required >70% to pass a class and my parents demanded higher.-can you believe that in Spain and here in Peru you basically need over a 50% to pass?
Hats: Why oh why did our society stop wearing hats? In case you forgot: they protect you face’s skin, your eyes, your hair, etc. Where is the sense in not wearing them?
Justice: I never have believed in a definition of justice: to punish, to revenge. But, now I see a new definition as defined by an opposition to charity. One can do charity work, but that is not what I do. I do justice work. I fight every day of my life here for equality. For justice. Working for justice is working to change the structures so charity is less necessary. (I am going to ask my mother’s permission to post my reflections on a conversation we had last year on this topic, stay tuned).
Then of course there is stuff like clean underwear, warm fuzzy socks, rain clouds, cliffs, food that tastes good, a good book you read for fun only, my neighbor…

21 Marzo 2011

Today was something else completely.

A professor had to be sent into the city because she is sick, so the students don’t have a teacher for there class called Communication. They haven’t had one for about 4 days, and don’t know when they will have one again. It isn’t like they can just call up a substitute teacher because we are so far away and probably by the time one gets here the professor will be better, so the class is just free. No adult in the room, potential time for learning: gone.
The kids have asked me in the past to be their substitute. The principal of the school also invited me to enter whenever a teacher wasn’t available and teach whatever I wanted (not sure if it is trust, or just the fact that he doesn’t care and thinks it might make him look good). I have always resisted stepping into the classroom for many reasons, feeling it wasn’t my place. A. I am not a teacher. B. I would really rather work with kids that are motivated and want to work with me, not be forced to work with me, C. If I am writing lesson plans I am not working on my own project development, D. I think it would be illegal for me to just step in as a teacher. But, when I saw the kids literally having recess for two periods of their four period school day I decided enough was enough, and at least I would enter for tomorrow. Well, tomorrow was today.

I found some activities in a manual Peace Corps gave us called Escojo. The funny thing is the Escojo program looks a lot like my VALE program but it is more focused on PC goals and mine is a little more oriented for the specific needs and desires of my community. Both, a good thing. I picked a day in the program that took the least set up and I felt would be the most beneficial for my kids. The theme was discrimination, and I started the day with 13-year-olds.

It blew my mind how they have literally never been spoken to about discrimination. My PC trainers told me it would be hard to talk to them because it is so unacceptable to say words like lesbian and gay in the classroom. The funny thing is, the fact that talking about people who are different is so culturally unacceptable it was easy to get the kids giggling and perk up their ears to listen when I just blurt, “lesbian” like it isn’t a curse-word.
First we played a game to make them each think they would have to stand up in front of the class and receive undeserved insults, then we talked about how scary it felt to just think you would be that person, of course we didn’t do it. So, now that they understood what it felt like to be discriminated against I introduced a word they had never heard before, ‘stereotype’. The kids played social roles and had to group themselves according to stereotypes. They stepped a little more lightly to protect themselves, but I still found the HIV positive kid paired with the gay guy, the judge pared with the professor, and the prostitute paired with the drug user. Because a majority of these kids have never seen or met a prostitute, or a black man, or a lesbian (that they know of), it was easy to fill the stereotypes. They only know from the little bit of media that makes its way here, or word-of-mouth. I would switch out their little name plates so the judge was HIV positive and it blew their minds. Or, a political figure that was a drug user, or a prostitute that was a loving mother, or …. drum roll… the big one… a professor that was a lesbian. That one actually scared them a little. I asked a kid in that first class why they looked so frightened with that idea. Afraid to tell me, he got his friend to explain for him that if a professor was gay, they would molest the students.

It was SUPER unfortunate for me that we had to hit this topic today. I had carefully planned not to touch anything this heavy with a ten foot pole for at least a year, once I had everyone’s trust and had gotten most of what I wanted to teach out already. But, once again, how can I pass up an opportunity to teach? Still feeling the ache in my belly from the punch this classroom served me I explained what homosexuality is as simply as I could using myself as an example to remove any stigma:
-“As a heterosexual professor of this class, that only means one thing; When I go home at night, my partner, in my house will be of the opposite sex, a man. Does it mean that when I come to teach in the mornings I am going to flirt with or touch my male students inappropriately?”-wait for the resounding no- “It is the same for a homosexual.”
-“As a homosexual professor of this class that only means that when I go home at night, my partner will be of the same sex, a woman. When I come here to teach, I would be here to teach you, just like a heterosexual teacher.”

Literally, wide eyes and dropped jaws. In my head all I can think about are the parents that are going to show up on my doorstep this evening to ream me out and refuse to allow me to work with their kids again. As I sit here typing, I wait for the knock.

Then, one little guy says, “But it isn’t natural. A man can’t make a baby with a man.” And he says it with such sweetness, curiosity, and sincerity it brings tears to my eyes now. “So?” I said. “ Can they still love a child? Can they still care for a child?” to which, the sweet little thing with all sincerity says, “yes, they can”. “Aren’t there children that need loving parents?”, he nods. “I have read that there are even some animals that choose same sex partners. But, what I am telling you doesn’t mean you need to believe that homosexuality is right or wrong. We are talking today about discrimination and how you should treat people that are different. You can disagree with homosexuality, but that doesn’t give you the right to treat someone who is homosexual, transsexual, or bisexual badly. Remember how you felt when you thought you were going to be discriminated against in front of the class. Is that fair? Just like prostitution or using drugs might not be something you agree with, that doesn’t mean it is fair or just to discriminate against a prostitute or a drug user.” By the time I finished that speech my conscience was clear, the kids were all nodding their heads in agreement, and the butterflies were going wild in my belly.

As I walked out of that classroom I really didn’t feel on top of the world for teaching them something so novel, I had a stomachache for the sadness of what we are up against here in Latin America.

The great news was that first class was the hardest one. The rest answered questions more open-mindedly, for the most part. I thought that by the end of the day I would want to rip my stomach out for driving me crazy with nerves, but the rest of the kids were pretty on par (meaning they still giggled at the word lesbian, but knew it was bad to do so). There was one point in the role-playing game where a boy was randomly assigned the lesbian role. The entire class up roared in laughter, the boy kind of shriveled as the other boys started to literally push him around and away.
-“Oye, what if I was a lesbian? How would you guys laughing make me feel right now?”
Immediate silence and frozen arms that quickly returned to their pockets. That worked, way better than I expected. Their guilty eyes on the floor.

I was in every classroom of the high school except the oldest (which only has three students, coincidentally, when the rest have 10-20). Which means that I touched every teenager in town except three. I don’t know if anything I did today will stick. But, if nothing else, I spent the day planting an idea that probably would have never crossed their mind otherwise.

The conclusion of the class is how to prevent discrimination and stereotypes from spreading. Every single answer in every single classroom was passive. When I proposed the idea of something aggressive like women’s suffrage, WWII, or the indigenous people’s slave rebellion there was a bit of surprise that something so big should take place to fight discrimination. We are talking about a country where I regularly see signs on store windows saying something like, “Young woman needed to sell at storefront”.

21 Marzo 2011

Today was something else completely.

A professor had to be sent into the city because she is sick, so the students don’t have a teacher for there class called Communication. They haven’t had one for about 4 days, and don’t know when they will have one again. It isn’t like they can just call up a substitute teacher because we are so far away and probably by the time one gets here the professor will be better, so the class is just free. No adult in the room, potential time for learning: gone.
The kids have asked me in the past to be their substitute. The principal of the school also invited me to enter whenever a teacher wasn’t available and teach whatever I wanted (not sure if it is trust, or just the fact that he doesn’t care and thinks it might make him look good). I have always resisted stepping into the classroom for many reasons, feeling it wasn’t my place. A. I am not a teacher. B. I would really rather work with kids that are motivated and want to work with me, not be forced to work with me, C. If I am writing lesson plans I am not working on my own project development, D. I think it would be illegal for me to just step in as a teacher. But, when I saw the kids literally having recess for two periods of their four period school day I decided enough was enough, and at least I would enter for tomorrow. Well, tomorrow was today.

I found some activities in a manual Peace Corps gave us called Escojo. The funny thing is the Escojo program looks a lot like my VALE program but it is more focused on PC goals and mine is a little more oriented for the specific needs and desires of my community. Both, a good thing. I picked a day in the program that took the least set up and I felt would be the most beneficial for my kids. The theme was discrimination, and I started the day with 13-year-olds.

It blew my mind how they have literally never been spoken to about discrimination. My PC trainers told me it would be hard to talk to them because it is so unacceptable to say words like lesbian and gay in the classroom. The funny thing is, the fact that talking about people who are different is so culturally unacceptable it was easy to get the kids giggling and perk up their ears to listen when I just blurt, “lesbian” like it isn’t a curse-word.
First we played a game to make them each think they would have to stand up in front of the class and receive undeserved insults, then we talked about how scary it felt to just think you would be that person, of course we didn’t do it. So, now that they understood what it felt like to be discriminated against I introduced a word they had never heard before, ‘stereotype’. The kids played social roles and had to group themselves according to stereotypes. They stepped a little more lightly to protect themselves, but I still found the HIV positive kid paired with the gay guy, the judge pared with the professor, and the prostitute paired with the drug user. Because a majority of these kids have never seen or met a prostitute, or a black man, or a lesbian (that they know of), it was easy to fill the stereotypes. They only know from the little bit of media that makes its way here, or word-of-mouth. I would switch out their little name plates so the judge was HIV positive and it blew their minds. Or, a political figure that was a drug user, or a prostitute that was a loving mother, or …. drum roll… the big one… a professor that was a lesbian. That one actually scared them a little. I asked a kid in that first class why they looked so frightened with that idea. Afraid to tell me, he got his friend to explain for him that if a professor was gay, they would molest the students.

It was SUPER unfortunate for me that we had to hit this topic today. I had carefully planned not to touch anything this heavy with a ten foot pole for at least a year, once I had everyone’s trust and had gotten most of what I wanted to teach out already. But, once again, how can I pass up an opportunity to teach? Still feeling the ache in my belly from the punch this classroom served me I explained what homosexuality is as simply as I could using myself as an example to remove any stigma:
-“As a heterosexual professor of this class, that only means one thing; When I go home at night, my partner, in my house will be of the opposite sex, a man. Does it mean that when I come to teach in the mornings I am going to flirt with or touch my male students inappropriately?”-wait for the resounding no- “It is the same for a homosexual.”
-“As a homosexual professor of this class that only means that when I go home at night, my partner will be of the same sex, a woman. When I come here to teach, I would be here to teach you, just like a heterosexual teacher.”

Literally, wide eyes and dropped jaws. In my head all I can think about are the parents that are going to show up on my doorstep this evening to ream me out and refuse to allow me to work with their kids again. As I sit here typing, I wait for the knock.

Then, one little guy says, “But it isn’t natural. A man can’t make a baby with a man.” And he says it with such sweetness, curiosity, and sincerity it brings tears to my eyes now. “So?” I said. “ Can they still love a child? Can they still care for a child?” to which, the sweet little thing with all sincerity says, “yes, they can”. “Aren’t there children that need loving parents?”, he nods. “I have read that there are even some animals that choose same sex partners. But, what I am telling you doesn’t mean you need to believe that homosexuality is right or wrong. We are talking today about discrimination and how you should treat people that are different. You can disagree with homosexuality, but that doesn’t give you the right to treat someone who is homosexual, transsexual, or bisexual badly. Remember how you felt when you thought you were going to be discriminated against in front of the class. Is that fair? Just like prostitution or using drugs might not be something you agree with, that doesn’t mean it is fair or just to discriminate against a prostitute or a drug user.” By the time I finished that speech my conscience was clear, the kids were all nodding their heads in agreement, and the butterflies were going wild in my belly.

As I walked out of that classroom I really didn’t feel on top of the world for teaching them something so novel, I had a stomachache for the sadness of what we are up against here in Latin America.

The great news was that first class was the hardest one. The rest answered questions more open-mindedly, for the most part. I thought that by the end of the day I would want to rip my stomach out for driving me crazy with nerves, but the rest of the kids were pretty on par (meaning they still giggled at the word lesbian, but knew it was bad to do so). There was one point in the role-playing game where a boy was randomly assigned the lesbian role. The entire class up roared in laughter, the boy kind of shriveled as the other boys started to literally push him around and away.
-“Oye, what if I was a lesbian? How would you guys laughing make me feel right now?”
Immediate silence and frozen arms that quickly returned to their pockets. That worked, way better than I expected. Their guilty eyes on the floor.

I was in every classroom of the high school except the oldest (which only has three students, coincidentally, when the rest have 10-20). Which means that I touched every teenager in town except three. I don’t know if anything I did today will stick. But, if nothing else, I spent the day planting an idea that probably would have never crossed their mind otherwise.

The conclusion of the class is how to prevent discrimination and stereotypes from spreading. Every single answer in every single classroom was passive. When I proposed the idea of something aggressive like women’s suffrage, WWII, or the indigenous people’s slave rebellion there was a bit of surprise that something so big should take place to fight discrimination. We are talking about a country where I regularly see signs on store windows saying something like, “Young woman needed to sell at storefront”.

20 Marzo 2011

I sought out being alone today.
The family was separating out to different chacras to work, I was invited to tend to the cows, but I needed to prepare my teacher and municipality talks just in case I need to do them this week. So I explained that I had to work and declined.
During my extended yoga session this morning, due to yesterday’s chacra work, I was interrupted by a little niece that is staying with us. With a huge smile on her face I think I disappointed her when I didn’t return the excitement to see her. I had to come out of a challenging pose to open the door for her! The poor sweet thing wanted to read another book with me. How, could I say no?
I had about 100 copies of 4 different books donated to me by a Limenean family. I kept four to use on my own, and the rest are set aside to give away to parents when they come to my workshops.
She kicked off her shoes just like the last time she visited and climbed onto my bed to make herself comfortable. She is 5 and can’t count to 20. I am about 99% positive that she has never been read to, and she just eats up any attention I give her. And I love her. Her chubby cheeks, how her eyes almost disappear when she smiles so big, how she takes great care to turn the pages of the book even more gently than I taught her to.
The morning yoga and reading session set off my day with a nice skip, even though I hardly left my seat and finished the first couple months of teacher lectures.
The very first lecture is on child brain development and memory. A base for them to build their teaching methods off of.
The second on the importance of language/speaking and nurturance for the developing brain.
It felt SO good to be talking about the brain all day, even if it was just to a computer.

19 Marzo 2011

What an exhausting day.

We rose around 7 to greet family members that had come into town to help with today’s potato harvest. Then, they all played 20 questions with me over tea and bread.
The hike to the chacra was up the canyon, so we all arrived tired and decided to eat lunch immediately. The fire was made and a potato alpaca broth was served.
The offerings to pachamama-Mother Earth were made (basically pouring food and drink on the ground while saying words of appreciation and aspiration- my host dad encouraged me to ask for a baby boy, ha, I said I need a man first), and we began planting.

Being the bull guide has become my job. I think it tends to go to the oldest son, but as we don’t have any brothers that live with us, and I love the crap out of those bulls, the job has fallen to me naturally. So, I am in front of the two bulls that are attached to the plow directing them on keeping the line straight and turning them around at the end of the line (which often involves my entire body weight pulling their horns or pushing their butts every 10 minutes for about 5 hours). And any time I think that I am getting tired I just look at my host father who is directing the 50lb plow. The man’s shoulders are to be desired by any football player. I have to say, between the four of us (2 bulls, host dad, myself) we have come to read each other pretty well and sweep through the field quickly with little or no hitches.
Well, the husband of my host mother’s daughter who lives in Arequipa City offered to give my host dad a break and run the plow. When my host father was showing him how to manage the plow, and when I realized I had never heard the man speak in quechua I realized this was going to be an adventure. He was learning, but refused to admit so. He was not strong enough and his work was sloppy, tiring our bulls quickly due to bad alignment and leaving the edges of each row unplowed leaving usable land, unused (apparently that is a pet peeve of mine…). All of that was fine, until… he told me to stop the bulls before the end of the line (my job as guide to decide, very culturally disrespectful), I told him we need to finish the row yet (knowing very well that he was not going to respond well to probably the first woman in his life ever trumping him, I knew I was picking a fight at that point), then he responds,
-“whow, look at the gringa teaching ME how to farm, shit!”
Even that I could have been bothered by, but shrugged off in a few minutes. But then, the women laughed awkwardly. The thing is, I could see in their eyes that they knew I was right, and there was guilt in the laugh and they looked at my eyes to make sure I was OK, but they laughed so they would’t make the man uncomfortable. AHHHHHH.
What makes it even worse, was the man was flirting with me mercilessly right in front of his wife the entire day.
I can’t stand latino men, and you women, mothers, sisters, and wives carry some of the blame. Stand up to them, damn it. Demand the respect you deserve.
I found myself talking to my American foremothers the rest of the afternoon. My lips sealed, my eyes to the ground, stopping short of each row, “thank you for giving me a place to go home to where I don’t have to feel like this. Thank you for fighting for me. Thank you for risking yourselves so that I can have a partner to come home to that not only loves, but respects me as an equal.”
When Don Juan, my host father, returned to the field he laughed and gracefully insisted on taking over the plow again.

The fume spouting from my ears calmed, but there wasn’t an ounce of me that wanted to go to the town party tonight. With the way that man had treated me all day, with how he has made me feel like a toy to be played with and bossed around, the last thing I wanted to do was go dance Huatiti with a hundred drunk latino men. But, my family so wanted me to celebrate carnival with them in the plaza. I decided to go with my host parents for a little bit, then come home way before bedtime.
The tradition for carnival is pretty darn cool. Yeah, they dance huattiti like always, but they do it around a tree that has a bunch of gifts tied in it. Then they chop the tree down and everyone jumps on it to get the blankets, toys, pots, etc. I thought the tree would be about the size of a Christmas tree and the “chopping” would be a figurative act. Yeah, no. it is a gigantic, full size eucalyptus (2 stories?). They dug a hole in the ground and stuck it in there sturdily. The most brilliant part is while the entire town is dancing in circles closely around the tree, they hand dancers a shot of strong alcohol then an axe, and they take a swing. The images of an axe in a head or the tree toppling onto a kid wouldn’t leave my head. But, it was a pretty darn cool spectacle that one would NEVER see in western, prevent-anything-that-could-possibly-go-wrong society. It was when the head of the axe started sliding off the end of it’s rod that I just had to laugh.

But, what did I spend the evening doing other than dancing with every hand that pulled me into the circle (age 5-60)? Running from foam spray. The teenage “thing” for carnival here is to spray your friends (or the girl you like) with foam spray. It took me straight back to football games in high school watching the girls pretend to stroll in one direction to get a little closer to the guys they like and pretend to not want to be sprayed by the guy they like. These boys would never spray a teacher or their parents. But, when one little guy tested my reaction with the tiniest of sprays on my arm and I took the foam and smothered it in his face it became a free-for-all for all my students. My hair, my face, my scarf, my jacket, my hat, my face again, it was all covered. I had SO much fun. Defiantly the oldest individual playing the foam game and not drinking, but SUCH a blast. And the kids felt so mischievous to get me, and the parents thought it was just the funniest thing in the world when I snuck up behind their kid and covered their hair and face in foam.

I retired to the curb with my host niece and we painted each other’s faces with foam until she fell asleep in my lap and my host dad took her in his arms as we headed home.

I am pooped. G’night.

18 Marzo 2011

Today I spent the day doing laundry (for the life of me I cannot get my whites, white).

Then, I spent the entire afternoon trying to fix the family’s standing water problem. A problem that I did fix, but it wasn’t too pretty in the end and I think the family was a little confused why I did it in the first place. So, we have two faucets in the house, one next to the toilet, and another in the courtyard as our primary source. There is no drain, so the water just fills the dirt and then settles. This wouldn’t be an issue if our front door wasn’t downhill from the faucet. So, your “welcome home” is a sloppy muddy mess. I decided to make a little irrigation tunnel that would funnel the water by the flowers and out the side of the door. Like I said, it worked in the end, but it really isn’t pretty. But, hey, my shoes are!

I think the family actually missed my cooking more than anything while I was at PDM. They were kind of feigning noodles. So, I went to the store to get tomatoes and alpaca leg to make us some spaghetti (and when I say alpaca leg, that is what I mean, I got the knee and joint this time). There are a series of children always playing in the street on my way to the tiny shop. Today, only one was there, about 3, alone, and wailing. When I walked by I saw that her grandfather was at a loss on how to make her stop crying and was seated just inside his front door with very worried eyes. He appears to be about 70 or 80 years old.
-“allianchu kashanki. Su mamai?” : “how are you? Where is her mom?”
-something in quecha I didn’t catch, then, “chacra”: In the field”

probably the first “conversation” I have had in quechua… but then I had to fall back on Spanish. I offered to walk her to the store with me. Immediately her tears stopped. Her wide, swollen eyes couldn’t soak up enough of that strange white girl that always walks by. The weird white girl card is always in my back pocket ready to be played. Lordy, children make me feel good.

So, dinner: spaghetti in alpaca marinara with fresh made cow milk cheese grated on top. All of it was a new flavor to me, and it was a big hit. That and me running from the fire to my gas stove and back over and over was also a big hit.

I think more than anything else, at this point in my service, I entertain the citizens of Madrigal.

17 Marzo 2011

I love Madrigal.
Seriously, I couldn’t be happier with my lifestyle and work here.
Let us just have a run down of today’s day:

I woke up when I felt like it, regardless of what the rooster and donkeys had to say.
I rolled out of my sleeping bag and the cool air breathed freshness onto my cheeks. The family was either at school or in the chacras-fields, so the “house” was mine.
Solitude. Silence. Yoga. Meditation. Then Portland Stmptown drip coffee. Only birds and Madeline Peyroux were singin to me.
I checked on my young garden of tomatoes and green beans, then the herb garden. I added some healthy compost and the happy worms popped out just long enough to say hello before my chickens started eating them.
I decided it was time to keep the outside, outside and I swept up the top layer of my dirt floor and bleached the underneath. It is funny how different healthy dirt is from unhealthy dirt. Healthy dirt: in the garden. Unhealthy dirt: on the floor in my room. I have killed the **it out of that dirt to keep me healthy. Haha.
Avocado, tomato, lime, and rice for lunch (a funny Peruvian dish I have come to love when I just don’t feel like cookin). Then, to the fields. Milk and feed the cow. Carry the milk back to the house and disinfect it. I managed to allow the boiling milk to run over and completely microbize part of my clean dirt floor all over again. Oh well.
To the corn field. Exactly 2 ears per family member picked and piled in my llukya (square fabric we use like a backpack). By the time the corn was boiled and cheese was cut the kids were knocking on my door for homework help. I made us all tea and we cuddled up on my bed side.
The Sun set and sent the chilliness back to us as the rain began to sing on the tin roof.

Who could ask for anything better?

16 Marzo 2011

Ok, so a new Chiles just opened up in Arequipa City. I thought, why not hit up their $7 lunch special of chicken tacos.
The hand me a to-go box with a small to-go sauce. Assuming it was mayonnaise, as usual Peruvian tradition would offer, I ignored it.
Once I finished my tacos and switched to the steamed veggies I switched out for rice I noticed black specs in the mayo. Curiosity made me smell it. RANCH DRESSING! A godsend. And to think, I almost treated it like blasted mayonnaise! The poor, sweet, loving, delicious sauce, I was so unappreciative!
This centimeter deep to-go cup just made my month.

March 15, 2011

I just opened my blog so that anyone can comment, I would LOVE to hear what anyone has to say, just please sign your name to anything you write :-)

14 Marzo 2011 take two

It is funny how certain places in the world just feel good to you. Sometimes it was chosen, like your childhood house or where you had your first date with your first love. Other times the world chooses them for you and they are slightly less picturesque: A certain surprisingly large rock you lunched on during a long hike; A small, dimly-lit shop at the back of an artisan market; a rode you drove down regularly with a specific destination in mind but somehow that road's curbs burn in your mind more than where you were going; a block corner you end up at in a new town when you were lost but had not a fear in your soul; A tree.
The spiritual me wants to believe that these special places have some magnetic quality that pulled you there and will draw you back again. but, the psychologist in me begs to differ. she thinks these are just places where you had a strong feeling of happiness or realization. the truth is, i feel both. These small spots on our earth are what i identify as my home.

14 Marzo 2011

This is not an entry for Grandma, my Aunts, or those weak of stomach to read.


Ok, so I was raised Episcopalian.
I have read the bible... twice.
I appreciate it, I appreciate the man Jesus Christ.
I just never identified him above all. He was great, and I love him, but there are a lot of great people in the history of the world that I also love: Ghandi, Mother Teresa, Nichiren Daishonin, Moses, Eve, Pachamama, and so much more.
Toward the end of my adolescence, though, I started to really pull away from Christianity because of the crazy things I saw people doing in the name of Jesus. Normal, natural things that Christians were prohibiting in the name of god. It broke me. It made me hate what Jesus has become. How twistedly people have straight up changed the beautiful words of Jesus made me despise his following. I resisted him because of them, skipping religious songs when they came up on my ipod, changing the channel when religious programs came up. I rejected the practice, but all along, I continued my personal discourse with god
Then, I moved to South America, a prodigiously Catholic society. At first I rolled my eyes and smiled and nodded while gritting my teeth, thinking, "how silly". Their floral Jesus decorations, and apparent obsession with the virgin mary made me more sad than anything. It didn't seem real. It seemed like a fake title to me. "Christian" "Catholic" just a title plastered by your family or society that everyone left mid life, but came back to in adulthood to teach their kids. A charade.
But, after living here for almost a year now, something has changed. I am sad. Lives here are sad, and hopeless for real change. If we are lucky, we can change the lives of a few generations down the road, but in the meantime, you struggle to get by.
Now, I say, who cares what religion you are, as long has you have faith? Faith is the only thing that keeps you alive each day. Faith in the potential for future generations is the only thing that keeps you from drinking the pesticide you put on your crops. The day a man or woman loses the faith, is the day their neighbor finds them in the field foaming at the mouth and convulsing.
Now, how can I judge anyone's faith? All I can do is be glad that I have faith in the mystic law and so does just about everyone I love.

13 Marzo 2011

Peru has a presidential election this April, so banners and political talk are taking over the bigger cities. there is less talk about it in the small towns, but honestly, more than i would have expected. And, an organization called ONPE seems to be extremely helpful in securing the fact that everyone has the opportunity and understands how to vote (even in these small towns). I am impressed.

It is interesting to ask around who Peruvians are voting for and why. There seems to be a lot of pretty face and familiarity based voting. Tonight were the presidential debates on public television.

Lets have a look at my favorites *sarcasm*. One candidate I didn't even bother to take the time to write about here actually said, "The poor should stop being poor." during the debates tonight.

I was all about Castaneda and his ideas for creating jobs outside of Lima and diffusing money to poorer towns. He is in his second term as Mayor of Lima (big deal, seriously). Then, he said something about being for "marriage" and now I am not so sure about him.

Ollanta is a handsome devil that speaks well and whose ideas I actually was on par with. More about ridding poverty by taking some money off the top and supporting programs like Vaso de Leche. But, he is a SUPER proud Peruvian. He wants to reintroduce the death penalty, cocaine leaf cultivation, and he is anti-Chile for example. He is one proud Latino. He also welcomed Venezuelean president Hugo Chavez's support.

Toledo, of course, is my actual favorite. The changes he made in his previous presidency were small, but in the right direction (the economy grew 6%, the deficit was .2%, started the Juntos program for single moms, the US-Peru trade agreement). AND, in a completely selfish aspect, I want him to win so his administration can support my work. He had a Peace Corps volunteer in his house when he was a kid that taught him English. Because he learned English he could get an education in The States and graduated from Stanford University. I was privileged enough to meet him at the PC anniversary celebration where he shook my hand and thanked me for the work I do. Yeah, I think he is smart and has his heart at the very least closer to the right place than most politicians (his sister is under house arrest because they said she forged a bunch of signatures to help him be elected, and he has an illegitimate daughter, and people got mad when he appointed an unpopular guy as foreign minister- i don't know the details). Did I mention he is recognized as a Distinguished Visiting Scholar at John Hopkins? Oh, and he was a consultant for UN, ILO, and OECD before he was president.


Then, there is Keiko. It is funny to think about this woman being president of Peru. First of all, she is a woman (wow), second, she is very educated and speaks extremely well and confidently. She KNOWS how to talk to Peruvians. I can see her just pushing at all their buttons every time she talks, in a good way. She speaks directly and grandiose. She knows how to get them on her side. She promises to fix everything from education to roads to poverty. And, she is winning in the polls, or bouncing back and forth with Toledo. She is a second generation immigrant from a japanese family line and was obviously well educated and I looked up where she went to university... Boston U.
Now... here is where it gets fuzy... Her father, Fujimori, was the president of Peru in the 90s. He actually stripped the title of first lady from his wife and gave it to Keiko during his presidency. Fujimori was president when Sendero Luminoso-Shining Path terrorists were running rampant in this country. He is credited by many for stopping them due to an image of him walking over the bodies of Sendero Luminoso soldiers that were dead ( i think, i am hearing through word of mouth).
But, let's rewind and have a look at the early Fujimori. He came from a very poor family, and could relate well to the gigantic poor populations in Peru. He actually beat the internationally known and nobel prize winning author Mario Vargas Llosa in his first election. During his first term he actually stabilized a hyper-inflated Peruvian economy, and cut down cocaine growth dramatically. The man was very popular. He was known for doing crazy stuff to produce dramatic change... cool, but listen to this: Due to a political deadlock in 1992 (aka, the congress couldn't get anything through because everyone disagreed with everyone-sound familiar?) he shut down congress!AND, the public supported this! Thank the lord the Organization of American States told him he had to cut that shit out and return to a representative democracy. This was about the time Peace Corps left Peru... political instability... i'll say!
In 1993 Fujimori ran for a second time and won with 2/3 the vote. This is when Peruvians say he started to act authoritarian. I say, isn't shutting down the congress a little dictatorial? But, what do I know? During this term he didn't seem to do much (heard he built schools, maybe?), but he did pass a law allowing him to run again...
Third run at presidency he ran against Toledo. He actually won the bare majority, but there were rumors of meddling. Then Fujimori's buddy Montesinos was exposed in a video bribing opposition for votes. Fujimori... still president at the time, in his second term, basically says, "fine" and agrees to have a re-election of which he will not be a part, and he goes on "vacation" to Japan. From Tokyo, he FAXES the peruvian government his resignation. Hilarious! Congress denied his resignation and impeached him.
Then... "stuff" started to appear. They say that in order for his government to obtain information to hunt down the leaders of Shining path and MRTA (the two terrorist groups he "defeated"), he violated human rights laws to get information. Thanks to wiki: "According to Amnesty International, "the widespread and systematic nature of human rights violations committed during the government of former head of state Alberto Fujimori (1990–2000) in Peru constitute crimes against humanity under international law.""um...
So, now in our timeline Toledo is president, and Fujimori is in self proclaimed exile in Japan. Fujimori is convicted of being co-author for a bunch of killings (some students and professors of Cantuta University, and some innocent citizens in Barrios Altos). All those killed were suspected to be terrorist group members... but weren't. But, Fujimori is in Japan, and the Japanese government refused to extradite him. Then, another case finds that Fujimori probably took part in dropping a bunch of weapons in the jungles of colombia for guerrilla fighters. THEN, he is linked to the disappearance of 67 citizens of Chimbote. THEN, they found that money donated from Japanese NGO's were actually re-routed to his personal bank accounts, mounting to about $600 million embezzled.
And what does Peru do... they give up trying to get him extradited from Japan. hahaha!
And Fujimori decides he wants to take a "vacation" to Peru, and decides he might want to run for president again. Looney. He heads over to visit Chile first, is arrested, and expedited to Peru.
Tried in 2009, and sentenced to 6 years in prison for violating human rights. He is still in jail today.

Now, you might say, "Well, you can't necessarily link the father to the daughter." But, in ALL of Keiko's political advertisement she never says, "I", she always says, "we" or "my family". There is still such strong support for Fujimori in Peru because they believe he stopped the horrible terrorism in the 90s, she is banking on people voting for her due to their thanks for her dad. Basically, people want to vote for her because she says she will take her dad out of prison. That is the only thing I hear people say when I ask them why they will vote for Keiko. C'mon! You didn't like terrorists because they were killing people to get what they wanted. Fujimori is in jail for violating human rights and killing people to get what he wanted!


Ok, that's my rant.
As a biased, educated, American citizen living in Peru who was not a part of and therefore can never completely understand this country's rich and sad history, i say, "Vote for Toledo... please."

But, we are talking about a country that re-elected a dud president Garcia a second time. People say they voted for Garcia because he didn't do anything before and at least he didn't to anything bad.

March 8, 2011

8 Marzo 2011


Right now I am in the city, nose in the computer trying to pump out the last few days of my curriculum left to develop as well as apply for funding like a crazy woman.

The funny part is I am currently developing the goal for Day 10, “What do they eat? Familiarizing VALE youth with the idea that cooking is a creative art that is culturally influenced.”(nutrition comes later)

Now, all of my family and friends know VERY well that they are not allowed to talk to me about food. That is my singular, number one rule about communicating with me: You are NOT allowed to talk to me about food. On my canned tuna fish and dried alpaca meat diet where canned chicken is a treat I really don’t want to hear about your lovely three course dinner or pad tai restaurant-served-lunch, it is torturous for this food snob.

So, you can imagine the pain inflicted as I munch on raw green beans and look up recipes for food I want to teach my kids how to make with the ingredients we have access to. Looking up traditional Turkish dishes, I come across baklava (yeah, we aren’t getting our hands on filo dough anytime soon). Can you believe my mouth even waters for Russian-made borsch? Then, the clincher… guess what Japanese websites want me to teach my kids? “EASY SUSHI RECIPES” “5 STEP SUSHI RICE” “MAKE BASIC SUSHI AT HOME”. I can just feel the fresh buttery yellowtail sushi nigiri melt on my tongue.

Maybe I need a beach day with some ceviche…

March 7, 2011

2 Marzo 2011

The anniversary celebration was kind of a dream. Not in the sense that it had been overly-fantastic, but in the sense that it was so quick and unreal that when it was over you had to question whether it happened or not.

Toledo was president of Peru about a decade ago. A lot of people don’t know this but his family hosted a Peace Corps volunteer when he was a child that taught him English. He gives many thanks to The Peace Corps for making his Stanford Education possible. So… He was at the party. I chatted with him and the woman by his side for a few minutes thanking him for his support and for being with us this evening, he thanked me and my department director for our work and service. It was unreal. And, he is running for president again, which would be fabulous for Peace Corps if he happened to win.

The funny thing is Toledo ran against the current president in the last election. The current president is Alen Garcia. Socially, the two men are known to be rivals, so it is understandable why Garcia didn’t show up. However, his wife, the first lady, Pilar Garcia, was there, and backed into a photo with my good friends Tim, Mario, and I. Tim wrapped his arm around her and we all smiled for the “paparazzi”. I am still trying to find where the photos were published.

But seriously, the best part of the night was the cheese. Oh, my lord, the best cheeses my tongue has touched in months. I didn’t even want to wash away the flavor with the delicious dry red wine they served.

The ambassador Rose M Likins was extremely sweet and generous and posed in photos with all the volunteers. I want to send a special thank you out to her and the entire staff at the US Peruvian Embassy for all of your support (you too Susanna, sorry we didn’t get to hit the streets together when I was in Lima).

Now I continue the rest of the week with my socia from Madrigal in Lima developing VALE and applying for cash!

1 Marzo 2011

I arrived in Lima early this morning with bad breath, a crook in my neck, and a really bad hair-do then headed straight to the convention center for Peru 15’s Project Design Management training. My social counterpart from Madrigal had gotten in the day before and met me at the center. The Center is called Atinchik (which means working together in quechua). I was unbelievably impressed with this organization. This Peruvian-power couple that is cuadra-lingual built this mini-compound/cooperative/training method. The center is designed for conventions, but in a very…. Holistic… way. They are chefs that also grow all the herbs and vegetables they use in the dining hall. They are a brilliant couple with a fabulous eye for art and hearts for teaching. People from the area they hire and teach, and they really treat everyone as a team. They also give talks on how to teach and organize to other organizations. I even found myself in the kitchen washing my coffee mug myself because I wanted to chat with them and try to absorb some of their techniques/brilliance (like serving a celery and herb soup for dinner after a pork-based lunch to sooth the stomach after the hard work it had to do all day digesting). We talked about a lot of traditional herbs she grew and used and different foods she pairs them with. I loved every minute with them. I want to be them. I was walking around their garden breathing in what I want for my future. I could smell my beautifully designed garden and house built by myself and my partner that is optimal for a loving, healthy, self-sustaining lifestyle.

The most beautiful part is I am learning the knowledge in my life right now to form a base to make this possible whenever and where ever I decide to make a home.

Tonight, we will put on the high heels and the nicest clothes we have in Peru for the national 50th Anniversary celebration in the Emassador’s house in Lima. The PC Chief of staff Stacey Rhodes of Peace Corps will be here in Peru, as well as the Peace Corps director of InterAmerica- Carlos Torres. I am so excited my stomach hurts, I need some celery herb soup.

28 Febrero 2011

For the training next week in Lima, Peace Corps requires that I bring a co-worker from my site. I invited a professor that uses teaching methods light years ahead of her peers, a loving relationship with my host family, and a heart of gold.

As of last week she was having trouble with her pregnancy and was not comfortable with a 16 hour bus ride from our site to Lima. Peace Corps said that the budget didn’t permit for me to buy a flight. So, I tapped into some USA savings and bought her a flight. She is, hands down, the most inspirational professor in the high school and my closest peer and friend at site. I couldn’t imagine doing the training for the development of my after-school program without her.

I am completely calmed after a week of worry and phone calls now that her ticket has been bought. The icing on the cake is that we will be attending the 50th anniversary celebration of Peace Corps at the ambassador’s house. An extremely exciting honor to be invited to. Who knows what important Peruvian, American, and international workers will be there!?

The funny thing is, I am not really looking forward to Lima. I am comfy in Arequipa. I like my daily life and work here. It might be the 16 hour bus ride that I am not looking forward to, or seeing co-workers I have to smile and nod at, or the year-long grey skies of Lima. Whether I want to or not, shortly I put myself on an upright bus seat and attempt to convince my body it is in a comfortable sleeping position.